A visit to the Red Centre of Australia had alluded me during the “Matilda years” but I still yearned to go to this mythical place. The heart of the Aboriginal Dreamtime stories. But during the past year another dream was on my “wish list” Since becoming more absorbed in art I thought an art based holiday would be a great experience. That is where it all started back in March. A thought, a spark, an interest that started me searching “art holidays” on the internet.
How lucky we are living in this digital age. A wish can be put into action at the click of a mouse. Surfing from page to page I found the answer to not one dream, but two. An art tour in the Red Centre based in the MacDonnell Ranges. I contacted Renata of “Redback Tours”. Fantastic… Sketching and painting in The Red Centre… I booked immediately.
One draw back, the tour did not go near Uluru (Ayers Rock). I MUST see this icon of central Australia. I would be close enough to almost taste it. So back to the computer…
Now as we get older our M.O. of travel has changed. Where as previously I had enjoyed wandering, with no time frame or set destination, I now plan shorter trips and suddenly the organised tour does not seem so restrictive as I once considered it. I now see the advantages. No need to worry about where the next bed would be, meals are all arranged and some one else will be doing the driving, leaving me free to sit back and enjoy the scenery. So I chose “wayoutback tours” Both these groups are small locally owned and operated and turned out to be excellent choices.
I looked forward in anticipation from March to July, it seemed so slow arriving. But then we were packing our bags and winging away to Alice Springs. Accommodation all arranged, even had a reasonable lunch on the Qantas flight
Next morning Sharon and Renata arrived to pick us up from the motel and whisk us away for a week of being absorbed in the magnificent scenery of the MacDonnell Ranges and trying to capture the colours and beauty that surrounded us.
First stop was Simpsons gap. One of the main ways through the MacDonnell Ranges and in 1871 it provided a route for the Overland Telegraph Line.[2]The area is an important spiritual place for the Arrernte people and our first glimpse of the amazing red colours of the outback. As we wandered around deciding on a spot to sketch a black-footed wallaby watched us.
By the time I took these photos it was late afternoon and the sun had disappeared over the back and the colours had become quite muted. But this is the sketch I did. I must admit those reds do look very vivid in my painting…
Then it was on to Glen Helen Homestead our home base for the next 2 nights. This is a historic homestead originally a cattle station built-in the 1880’s. Life was hard in the Australian outback and the homestead had many set-backs. Fire, flood, drought it went through many changes of hands. In 1962 a road was finally built through from Alice Springs, things were looking up. But then disaster struck again, the road was washed away in the late 1960 floods. 3 more times it changes hands, then in 1985 a fire destroys the homestead. But outback people are sturdy and determined and it is rebuilt using windows, doors and fittings from old houses. But then when in 1988 the Finke River inundates the property with 400mm (16in) of rain in less than 24 hours causing significant flood damage it seems the old house finally gave up and it was left destitute. Then in 1999, after 10 years and another couple of owner changes, the property was leased, upgraded and reopened by Trevor Cox. In 2006 came the final (so far) transformation and this historic old homestead is now a tourist mecca.
What an amazing place to stay. After a day of sight seeing and creativity now sitting with a group of new friends, glass of wine in hand watching the sun set across the Finke River. The reflections are stunning and the colours breathtaking.
Golden hour and I stand on the banks of the Finke River a feeling of awe deep inside me.
As the sun sets over the river we go inside the homestead for a delicious home cooked dinner. Then to our comfortable beds in a block of modern, motel style units, with ensuites, built behind the homestead. After a busy day it is a good nights sleep to be ready for tomorrow…. (to be continued)
Wonderful scenes, Pauline, and I love your sketch rendition of this red land. Graham travelled to Uluru years ago. A momentous landscape and to simply sit and paint or draw it must be like a waking dream.
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A waking dream is the perfect phrase for it Tish. I had to keep pinching myself. Have you ever been over here?
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No, I haven’t. It has been a great source of envy. Now and then we think of making a BIG trip, and especially since one’s met so many lovely Aussies in blogworld 🙂
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Once you have made the horrendous flight over you would just love it here Tish
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Think I might have to do it in stages.
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Qantas have a new flight coming next year, non stop UK to Perth…
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You’re beginning to tempt me…
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👍
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Oh, marvellous, Pauline! I find myself quite envious!
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It was a marvellous experience
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😊
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Wow- I am blown away at the stark beauty of this place and the way your photos portray it. What a wonderful painting you created – would love to be artistic like you. Hear what you’re saying about the attraction of organized tours- nice to hand the details over to an expert😊. Look forward to the continuation.
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Thank you I loved the whole experience of the outback and though I used to rather look down on the organised bus tours I found these small tour groups owned and operated by a local to be a totally different experience. A bit like your horses, I’m enjoying having some one else do the organising and I just go for the ride…
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How wonderful you made this trip, and portrayed it! Looking forward to the next part – enigmatic shots of an enigmatic place.
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Enigmatic is a good word for this amazing place
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Your photos and your painting are wondrous PP. I wish I could go back and capture these places again. The OH and I were there in 2003 with a dodgy SLR camera and didn’t realise it had a fault until we got home. We spent a week in the region, hired a Landcruiser from Alice and drove to Uluru and back. It is a fabulous region and I am glad you finally got there.
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What a shame about the camera. I didn’t actually take as many as I used to, because at the time I was more into the art. But I still took plenty…
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It is a wondrous place.
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Wow! It is even brighter red than the reds of the Painted Desert! . . . and there are eucalyptus trees there! That big wallaby thing is scary though, like a humongous rat!
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I had to chuckle at your comment about “that big wallaby thing” they are actually quite small, only about knee high. The ;gum trees are beautiful and so many of them. The colours of the rocks change as the sun goes down and during the golden hour they look as though they are on fire. I took so many photos….
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KNEE HIGH?!?! That is a HUGE . . . whatever that thing is! I would not mess with it. There are such weird animals there. Why can’t Australia have simple harmless animals like bears and mountain lions?
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Ha ha, our deadly things are smaller, you can’t see them coming… as for the wallaby, you should see his BIG cousin, the big red kangaroo. Now they are scary and can kill with a swipe from its hind leg…They look rather rat like too…
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Okay . . . I am SO not coming to Australia any time soon!
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☹️
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Don’t be sad. It is not just because of the scary animals. Airplanes are even scarier! They leave the ground! Besides, there is so much here that I have not seen yet. I left the West Coast for the first time only five years ago.
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Yes your country is as big as ours. Always something new to be discovered.
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I really dislike rats, and ours are only about the size of a Big Mac.
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Ugh…
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When I was in school, I actually had a friend believing that jackalopes were real! I told him that they lived out in the Mojave Desert and were quite vicious. He asked how they get into their warrens with antlers; so I told him that with antlers like those, they don’t need to live underground.
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Have you heard of jackaroos that live over here?
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No, but I would guess that it is a fancy word for an intern.
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Close, it is a farm hand on the big stations, they also have jillaroos, girls can do anything!!!
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Yes, when I was in school, internships in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa were trendy. I did mine here because no one else did. I mean, I did not want to do what everyone else was doing. I think I heard that word from that time.
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Pauline your joy shines out in words, photos and your glorious art, more please 🙂
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Thanks Gilly. I’m enjoying reliving the tour through the blog. It’s good to be back in the fold again.
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The last three photo are so stunning! ❤
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Thank you for your comment Olga, it was stunning scenery, as a photographer you would be in your element
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I had a wonderful, vicarious experience just viewing your beautiful captures of the scenery. ❤
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more to come…
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the scenery is so stunning that it all but brings tears to my eyes… you are definitely squeezing the most from each day, and wow – what a great and inspiring way to wean back into creative mode… your photos are as amazing as your art!
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Thanks Lisa, it is amazing country, the views are quite spectacular. I would like to spend more time there, but it is so far away from where I live.
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[…] on the art tour I had shown Sharon the camping itinerary and she had said, “wow that is a very busy, full […]
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Wow, what a fabulous adventure, and time for your art, too. Thanks for igniting memories of my central Australia trip 30 years ago. I’m looking forward to your next instalment 🙂
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I think it may have changed in 30 years, especially the roads… I have put the instalments in each next post, oh I see you have found them. Thanks for the comment Ruth
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[…] a week long “art tour“. We are now waiting outside the motel to be picked up by “Wayoutback tours” […]
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[…] to Glen Helen Gorge, tonight we will be staying there, but not in the homestead like last week (see it here) but this time we are in the camp ground in the tents. More about this in the next […]
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[…] pots and vegetables to care for themselves.Since the last 2 art get aways ( Grafton in April and Alice Springs last year) I have become hooked on this style of art learning. This week was even better, with a […]
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[…] I am taking you back nearly 3 years when I first got the urge to start keeping a journal. We booked into a 5 day art tour in the red centre of Australia, a magical place. If you would like to see more photos and my account of that time go here. […]
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